That's bad news.
But now you know why they changed the oil for free ...
nissbird hat geschrieben:So I will make a tool to protect the end of the crank from my puller.
That is a very good idea.
Do you have a photo of the end of the crankshaft?
nissbird hat geschrieben:Question: Where should I strike it with a mallet?
Do you want to pop off or wiggle off the flywheel from the crankshaft?
Using a puller and hammer is basically using force and impact.
One has to find the "sweet spot" using both of them to remove the flywheel.
Applying force only does not always do the job.
Applying impact only does rarely do the job.
And even using both of them is not always successful.
Hence the usage of heat or cold like described in previous messages.The "pop off" method.
After putting the puller under (high) tension, normally a hit on the centre bolt of the puller should do the trick. But this has probably already been tried a lot of times by the workshop...The wiggle method.
An alternative can be to use a heavy duty two legged puller, hammer and time
For reference, lets say:
0° is our reference point, at the exact position of the woodruff key.1) 0° shift from the woodruff key.
Position leg one of the puller at 0° of the circle described by the flywheel.
Position leg two of the puller at 180° of the circle described by the flywheel.
And the centre bolt of the puller nicely at the middle of the end of the crankshaft (or the part protecting the end of the crankshaft).
While applying moderate force with the puller give alternately a soft axial tap on the flywheel at the spots located at 90° and 270° of the circle described by the flywheel (blue arrow).
Check regularly the force which is applied by the puller and slowly increase the force which is applied by the puller while continuing giving alternately soft axial taps on the flywheel at the spots (blue arrow) located at 90° and 270° of the circle described by the flywheel.
That way you're trying to create a wiggle motion to get the flywheel of the crankshaft.
It is a little bit like grasping the flywheel with both hands and alternately pull on the flywheel with your left and your right arm. But now doing this with a two legged puller and the impact of the (copper) hammer.
Since the flywheel of the BT1100 has its fitting at the engine side of the flywheel you also can give soft radial taps on the flywheel at the side that's facing you if are on the left side of the Bulldog (green arrow).2) 90° shift from the woodruff key.
If it's not successful (yet) turn the two legged puller 90° and repeat the above steps: meaning you will be giving alternately soft axial taps on the flywheel at the spots locate at 0° and 180° of the circle describe by the flywheel.3) 45° and -45°shift from the woodruff key.
The same holds for a shift of 45° and -45°.
This wiggle method is in general much softer on the end of the crankshaft compared to repeatedly having to try the pop-off method in a "hard" way. But it is a very good idea to protect the end of the crankshaft!PS With a heavy duty two legged puller I mean something like a Facom U.32T6-20: 3,5kg weight and 60kN pulling force. That's not a "chocolate" puller, but a stiff puller that will deliver the force and impact where it is needed. OK, a little bit less is still good enough but it has to be very ridged.
It seems you have a second kind of usage for the Cold Spray.
Does the paper shrink when applying Cold Spray?