Hi guys picked up my bike today its a 2004 model with fuel silencers and non standard bars the rear end has been chopped about so i
would like to put it back to original. Its also got some 2nd rate murals on the tank which also has a dent, so i might buy a leather tank
cover which would kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I have no idea at the moment about controls or warning lights but there is an orange light
on the dash, can someone tell me what this means as i have no hand book. Cheers. Dave.
you don't say what position the light is on the display but the orange light is very probably the low fuel warning light or more seriously it could be the engine oil low level (low pressure) warning light. Do not use fully synthetic oil (use good 10w 50) or oil that has friction reducing adatives (you will make the clutch slip).
Search on the net and you can find BT1100 service manuals on CD for about £5.
Thanks for the info ade i didnt spot the petrol pump sign on the warning light so you were right low fuel which probably means no
reserve tap thats a bit scary !! Can you tell me how to adjust the clock. Even if i buy the service manual it probably wont tell me
these things. I will try and keep an eye out for the original owners manual. But i am not holding my breath. Dave.
There are two little buttons on the right side of the dials. I think you need to hold them both down at once to get the numbers flashing and then press one of them (not sure which, might be the top one) advance each digit on the clock and confirm each digit by pressing the other button. when all 4 digits are entered you have a clock. It will go back to zero if you disconnect the battery.
Another very important thing is the starting proceedure.
The starter motor is a weak link and VERY expensive to repair. So, you must always do this when you start your dog.
Switch on so that all is ready to go, wait until the fuel pump has stopped clicking and THEN press the start button. KEEP the start button pressed until BOTH cylinders are firing up and ONLY THEN release it.
Cheers ade your becoming my savior, i have some broken panels at the rear so i am going to get her a bit tidied up before she goes on
the road. Also one of the silencer cans is dented so i am going to drill out the rivets straighten it up the re-rivet. I am hoping this goes
ok as they are £400 a pair ouch!! Cheers for now Dave.
...as an extra point to the above advice, do so without using any throttle, choke if needed but no throttle. Just thumb the starter and keep it pressed til the big old girl takes over!
OK next question for you guys in the know i am tidying up my bike and tried to take out the rear wheel today, it seems you have to
loosen the 4 domed nuts that secure the bevel box, am i right in saying this ? Well i took them off and the box wouldnt budge, so
what i am thinking of doing is loosen them slightly and ride around the block, hopefully the torque and pressure should brake
it loose. Your comments please. Dave.
If you do what you propose you will bugger up the final drive. DON'T DO IT!!!
If you want to remove the rear wheel you only need to take out the spindle and loosen off the brake arm. To take out the spindle loosen off or remove the locking bolt (end of the swing arm on the brake side) and then take off the spindle nut (on the diff side). You can then take out the spindle from the brake side. Then the whole wheel simply lifts out. If you have a difficulty it will be the cush drive that links the wheel to the diff. it simply needs moving back into the diff housing. Note which wheel spacers go where (use your phone caamera).
You really need to get and read a manual so that you can understand what you are hoping to do. Remember these bikes are at least 10 years out of production so spares are like hen's teeth, fortunately they are as tough as old boots if you look after them properly and don't abuse them.
Hi again ade is it just me and you on the english forum . Any way thanks for the warning but i did all the things you listed took out the
axle shaft removed the caliper completely as it needed cleaning up and a coat of paint, moved the torque arm right up out of the way
and then wiggled the cush drive off leaving the fins sticking out but the rim would not pass these fins. I am a reasonably competent
mechanic thats why i suggested loosening the four bolts. I decided to paint just the bevel box and try taking the wheel out at a
later date. I am now looking for a taller screen the stock one is so small its hardly worth being there, i saw quite a nice one i think
mra or similar with a flip up piece at the top about £100 i think i might go for one. Dave.
If you have the calliper off I would suggest that you give it a service, new seals etc. The callipers on some dogs were prone to sticking on very slightly, and anyway it is a good opportunity to inspect and repair. You can get the repair kit on eBay quite cheap.
Be careful tightening up the pinch bolt on the wheel spindle, if you strip the threads your in Helicoil repair teritory (expensive).
PS Lonely place this UK forum, anyone else out there?